Sundowners. A ritual I learned in Africa and would like to establish in my “regular” life back home. The sundowner involves stopping to enjoy an alcoholic beverage during sunset. Sundowners allow us to reflect on the day’s adventures and feast our eyes on the painted African skies.
It was our last day at the Savuti camp and tomorrow we were to fly to the Linyati region, to Vumbura camp, in the heart of the Okavango delta.
If you missed the post about how I was drawn to this epic region of the world and what happened before this post, catch up here and then with part 1 , part 2 , and part 3.
We boarded the plane, a tiny turbo prop, and fears of crashing immediately flooded my mind. I had always heard bush planes go down easily, but now was not the time to start thinking of that. Our pilot was a woman named Micaela. She assured us we would arrive safely, despite the thunderhead clouds forming on the horizon. Eventually the rain became so thick, we had to make an emergency landing at Great Plains. Ross and Ariel greeted us, soaking wet, and offered us umbrellas to the cabin. We drank tea and chatted while waiting out the storm.
An hour later, the weather let up and we once again flew, making it to camp. Vumbura was built to sit up above the wetland. Here I met Malaki, an amazing effervescent woman who used to be in the police force, but had switched her career to tourism.
The place was amazing. Not only were we now in the heart of the Delta, but we were spoiled with the beauty of the camp. We immediately set down our bags and hopped in the Land Rover for a ride.
Our guide’s name was Sam. Sam was born in the delta. He had lost his dad in 1968 and crossed the delta river with his mom. His brother went to work in the South African gold mines but wanted a better life for his brother. He encouraged Sam to study and look into tourism. Sam got a job as a guide with Wilderness Safaris and has been there for over a decade.
Our drive took us to a tree where a young leopard lay. We were enjoying the scene quietly when the radio cracked on to alert us one of the other trucks had gotten stuck and needed back up. We decided we would go for the rescue! After our experience getting stuck in a watering hole with a dead hippo, we were eager to see what predicament this group got themselves into.
Because it was the rainy season, the ground had become very soft in certain parts. A lot of the Mopani trees held the ground together, but occasionally the truck wheels would get sucked under. The guide tried using sticks to leverage the wheel out of the mud. Nothing seemed to work. Eventually using straps and more logs and sticks, the truck was released and the group could go on their way. The Bushman Solution worked!
During the debacle, we met a lovely woman named Ruth. She’s an inspiring world traveler and retired lawyer. Ruth and her sister sat in the truck with us and we chatted about our adventures thus far and how exciting it was to be in Africa. I learned Ruth was from San Diego, where I am currently living, and we exchanged information for our return to the US. It has been lovely getting to know Ruth better in Southern California! Later that evening, we learned the group managed to see that young leopard make a kill and drag it into a tree to feast.
One morning, we ventured out to have a water-based adventure. The delta was so clear, Sam said we could drink straight from it! And so I did. We rode in a dugout canoe through the reeds. Our guide told us of the medicinal uses of plants within the delta. We learned of the culture of the bushman, and the natural history of the region.
It was a spectacular way to experience such a gem of nature. Additionally spectacular, was the lodging accommodations of the camp! This place was built to enjoy the delta from comfort. Normally I enjoy simple things like camping in the dirt, but I will admit its nice to live in luxury! Check this place out!
And of course, words can’t ever describe what pictures can … so here are some shots of the wildlife we saw. Pretty good for the rainy season!
Just driving right over those Mopani trees!
Time for a coffee!
After a couple of days, my mom and I left our glamorous accommodations and the splendor of Botswana’s Okavango Delta and headed to Zimbabwe where more adventure awaited.
Stay tuned for the next story of broken legs in Victoria Falls and attempts to tag a wild Painted Dog pack with Dr. Rassmussen in this post here .
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This story ends here! If you’d like to keep reading, be sure to subscribe to the newsletter and get immediate updates delivered to your inbox. For stories earlier in the trip, read part 1 , part 2 , and part 3.
As always, please share Woman Scientist with anyone you think may feel inspired!
Thanks for reading.
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All photos taken by Allison Lee and Cynthia Cusick. Information obtained through personal conversation with Wilderness Safari guides.
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Alone and unguarded, Brother lion ended up getting into some trouble. A band of three other brother lions roaming the area challenged him to a fight. Without the help of his brother, he was no match for the three males and unfortunately did not survive the attack.
Each time we saw him, he barely moved. In the heat of the sun, you’d suspect he had died. Every now and then, though, he would stir, roll around, and clean himself off. 
Then one evening, just before dusk, we saw Mr. Skinny in a rather peppy mood. We weren’t sure what was going on at first, but then we saw. Ms. Lion had returned. At first, she seemed rather annoyed he had started to follow her. She ran ahead, and he continued to slowly trot behind.
It became clear he was too weak to catch up with her. Exhaustion took over, and he lay down to catch a break. Surely Ms. Lion would be on her way?
The guides were optimistic that Mr. Skinny could recover. Although, with the band of three brothers still roaming around and a flirtatious female visiting them all, his chances would be slim unless he stayed well hidden from the other males.
Each day our schedule was full of adventure, food, and relaxation.
Giraffes are probably one of my favorite animals. They’re so tall and slow. If you’ve ever seen a 
